Images(2)

Embroidered Raised Work Casket

Date1674

OriginEngland

MediumWood, tortoiseshell, metallic purl, linen, silks, white metal, brass, pearls, and mica

DimensionsOW: 15 1/2" x OH: 9 1/4" x OD: 12 1/2"

Credit LineMuseum Purchase

Object number1956-300,A

DescriptionThis is an embroidered casket with a hinged lid and double front doors which features polychrome raised needlework on top and all sides. It is banded with tortoiseshell which sits atop gilding, and still has its surviving gilt ball feet. The lid shows four female figures whose identities are still mysterious. The first figure wears a crown and cape and stands on a salamander, which perhaps indicates fire. The second figure wears a floral dress and a crown of laurels. The third figure, holding the overskirt of her dress up and carrying a cornucopia, is possibly the personification of spring or of Plenty. The fourth figure holds a book, perhaps indicating that she is associated with knowledge. The background of the lid shows a castle, fish, birds, animals, and trees.

The front two panels show a raised work lady and cavalier. In the lady's background is a castle and the cavalier's background a fountain and the mark "A. B. 1674." The couple are also surrounded by flowers, animals, clouds, and trees. One side panel features three angels, likely archangels Michael, Gabriel, and Raphael or angels proclaiming the birth of Jesus. The angels hold a horn, a palm frond, and a book. The third angel is from a different panel, evident by the fact that he sits on a different grass ground, and that the castle behind him is cut off in the middle. On the opposite side panel is stitched a woman with her hands crossed over her bodice. She wears a blue dress and a now very faded shawl. She is flanked by flowers and animals. To her right is a castle or large building on fire with a blossoming tree and to her right is a building that appears in ruins, juxtaposed with a nearly-bare tree. It is unclear who this woman is and if the buildings behind her are Biblical (perhaps Sodom and Gomorrah) or something else. The back of the casket features a body of water framed by moss and trees. This sea scene is flanked by a lion and a jaguar. All exterior scenes are worked in intricate raised work, and incorporate metallic purl, beads, moss, lace, and mica.

The casket's interior has a quilted coral silk lining. The lid can be lifted to reveal removable toilet glass, a glass scent flask with pewter stopper, compartmented spaces with a secret drawer, and a large compartment lined with a hand-colored print. This print depicts seven men following another man with two donkeys. The men are labelled Issachar, Levi, Iuda, Dan, Sebulon, Naphthali, Gad, and Issur, indicating that they are eight of the 12 tribes of Israel. The front doors of the casket can also be opened to reveal door interiors and a series of drawers with geometric floral embroidery. These patterns are made of polychrome silk threads laid in parallel lines. A central drawer has "ANN B__RHAM" stitched on it. Part of the surname is obscured by a metal pull.

Stitches: buttonhole bullion, coral knots, detached buttonhole, encroaching satin, French knots, knots, tent stitches; couching; knitting.
Label TextThis embroidered casket, made by someone with the initials "A. B." in 1674, is an exceptional example of the embroidery that was popular in England in the second half of the seventeenth century. This casket was likely the final project in the needlework education of a schoolgirl, who was probably 11 or 12 years old when she embroidered this box. The lid and the front doors open to reveal a series of embroidered drawers and coral-colored silk compartments (including a secret drawer!), in which the casket's owner would have stored her most prized possessions such as gems, letters, jewelry, and writing implements. The stitchery and materials used to make this casket indicate just how precious the box and its contents were to its maker: the casket includes lace, metallic purl, mica, glass, and beads, all of which were very expensive and therefore reserved for particularly special objects. The maker made her treasure chest even more special by creating three-dimensional figures out of raised-work embroidery, which not only show off the cabinet-maker's notable embroidery skills, but also serve as charming illustrations of popular late seventeenth-century fashion and hairstyles.
InscribedNone
Markings"A. B. 1674"
ProvenanceThe casket is reputed to have been given by Charles II to James Whitton [or William Whitton], Ranger of Woodstock, one of whose account books is enclosed in drawer in lower section of case. Ex coll: Mrs. R. Tennant. See Christies Catalog (Thursday, April 26, 1956), item 90.