Silk and Linen Brocatelle Document

DateLate 16th century

MediumLinen, hemp, and silk

DimensionsOverall (H x W): 20 1/2 x 18 1/2in. (52.1 x 47cm) Other (Design Width): 11in. (27.9cm) Physical Description (PPI (yellow)): 40 Physical Description (EPI (yellow)): 80 Physical Description (PPI (blue)): 32 Physical Description (EPI (blue)): 120 Physical Description (PPI (reverse)): 56 Physical Description (EPI (reverse)): 128

Credit LineGift of Mrs. Francis H. Lenygon.

Object number1971-267

DescriptionBlue and gold silk warps and yellow silk pattern weft cover the heavy gray linen ground weft in this shield or hood-shaped fragment. The edges are all cut and left raw. The design is in a drop repeat of stylized pomegranate blossoms framing lotus palmettes.The 5/16" selvedge is a striped fancy twill in pink, ivory, green and apricot. There is stiff glue residue on the reverse and evidence of the edges having been pressed under.
Label TextThe design of this fragment is created through the use of a brocatelle weave. Brocatelle refers to a compound weave with multiple sets of both wefts and warps, and usually also indicates the presence of a different base fiber (in this case linen).
Markings5 oval "Moran & Co." stamps in purple on reverse; 2 “NOT FOR SALE” stamps in purple on reverse.
ProvenanceThis is one of a large collection of "decorator samples" from the firm of MORANT & COMPANY, obtained by Morant & Co., 91 New Bond Street, London, before 1930. The firm, later known as LENYGON & MORANT, was transferred to New York about 1930.
Given to CWF, 1971.