Silk Brocade and Lancé Document

Date1850-1900, in style of ca. 1750

MediumSilk

DimensionsOverall (H x W): 28 3/4 x 22in. (73 x 55.9cm) Other (Selvedge Width): 22in. (55.9cm) Other (Design Repeat (H x W)): 14 5/8 x 10 5/8in. (37.1 x 27cm)

Credit LineGift of Mrs. Francis H. Lenygon.

Object number1971-280

DescriptionThis rectangular fawn brocaded satin has a central motif of a rose stem surrounded by curvilinear vines. The central rose stem has three roses, three blue flowers, and big scrolling leaves. It is flanked by curvy vines with large pink and red roses and small carnations, small pink flowers and berries, and oak leaves. The ground is self-patterned with an all-over pattern of circles and crescents. The green of the stems and leaves are lancé and the other colors—pinks, blues, and reds—are brocade. The top and bottom edges are raw. The left and right edges are selvedges. The selvedges are 5/16” wide. From the outside in, there are six warps of balanced plain weave, then thin stripes of blue, white, blue in satin weave. There is a stitch line ½ inch from the left edge and 1 1/8” from the right edge. There are two 1 1/8” stripes where something was once applied, 2 7/8” and 4 ¾” from the top edge. In the stripes and outside the stitch lines along the side edges, the fabric is unfaded, showing much more vibrant colors. The fragment is glued to a modern cotton backing.
Label TextLenygon & Morant was a decorating firm that specialized in historical revival styles. They collected historic textiles to reproduce or adapt. In this adaptation, they combined the stiff formality of the early eighteenth century and elements of the styles of the 1750s.
MarkingsStamped in purple on reverse: “NOT FOR SALE.”
ProvenanceThis is one of a large collection of "decorator samples" from the firm of MORANT & COMPANY, obtained by Morant & Co., 91 New Bond Street, London, before 1930. The firm, later known as LENYGON & MORANT, was transferred to New York about 1930.
Given to CWF, 1971.