DS2004-102: 1953-849,1-2, 1984-60,1-2, and 1971-1596,7e.

Images(2)

Sack, Saque, Robe à la Française

Date1780-1790

OriginGreat Britain (probably)

MediumSilk, silver and silver gilt; linen sleeve and bodice lining; silk sleeve ruffle lining (bottom ruffle only.)

DimensionsOL: 73"; Waist 22"; Textile width 19 1/2".

Credit LineMuseum Purchase

Object number1953-849,1

DescriptionGown of heavy white silk woven with metallic silver gilt (gilding now largely worn off) running from selvage to selvage, creating repeated dots, 3/16" diameter, with self-color sub pattern of vertically undulating vines. Gown has fitted bodice with deep low neckline, outlined with narrow silver lace. Edge to edge front opening, now fastened with hooks and eyes. Bodice front is encrusted with silver lace and gimp giving the effect of a stomacher. Fitted sleeves ending in double self fabric ruffles edged with silver lace. Skirt has wide side hoops, and is open at front to reveal matching petticoat, #2. Sack back, with pleats falling from narrow area of shoulder into a train. Bodice and sleeves lined with white tabby linen, fitted in the bodice and dipping to deep point at center back waist; side seams left raw, apparently restitched.

Construction History:

1. 1780-1790: Initial Construction
2. March 8, 1956: Cleaning, checking, restoring by Ernest LoNano.
Label TextFormal or Court Gown
Britain, 1780-1790
Silk woven with silver-gilt threads, trimmed with silver-gilt lace, sequins, gimp, and tassels, bodice lined with linen.
From the collection of James Frere, 1953-849

Formal clothing retains conservative design features long after they have gone out of style. Although the wide skirt was typical of mid-eighteenth-century styles, the deep point at this gown's back waist suggests a date in the 1780s. The crisp silk textile is dotted with metallic silver threads woven from selvage to selvage, a type of fabric called silver tissue.
ProvenanceEx. Coll. James Frere, Bluemantle Pursuivant of the College of Heralds. Exhibited London Museum, Lancaster House. See file.