Woman's gown, brocaded silk, altered
1745-1750 (textile); gown ca. 1780
Origin: England, Spitalfields
OL: 65"; waist 24"; Textile 19 3/4" wide; vertical repeat 13 1/4"
Brocaded silk and linen lining
Acc. No. 1941-211,1
Woman's gown of ivory color silk, brocaded with detached three-part flower clusters in reds, violet, yellows, and green and small lavender sprigs against a white supplemental weft pattern of serpentine flowering vines. Fitted bodice has front edge-to-edge closing, terminating in deep, squared-off points at front waistline; back bodice is shaped into a deep point at the waist and stiffened with boning. Neck is square in back and cut round and low in front. Untrimmed narrow sleeves curve over the elbows. The bodice and sleeves are lined with linen, approximately 44 x 40 threads per inch. Skirt, designed to be worn with side hoops, is pleated in 1" pleats to bodice. Skirt front is open to reveal petticoat. Skirt is unlined and has pocket slits. The skirt forms a slight train when elevated by hip-bustle device. (Photographed with petticoat 1960-715).
Britain, silk textile 1745-1750, remodeled ca. 1780
Silk brocaded with silk, bodice lined with linen and linen-cotton, boning
The brocaded pattern of this silk textile has scattered flowers typical of the late 1740s. The cut of the gown indicates later remodeling around 1780 when fashion called for low necklines with prominent chests and edge-to-edge front closures. Shown with eighteenth-century quilted petticoat.