COLLECTION: Costumes

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Woman's waistcoat or jumps, quilted

1720-1750
Origin: Europe
L: 20 1/2"; W: (at shoulders) 12 1/2".
White tabby cotton, cord quilted and embroidered with linen; linen lining and tapes for boning.
Gift of Anonymous Donors
Acc. No. 1971-1566
White cotton woman's waistcoat or bodice quilted symmetrically in a flowering branch pattern, with drawnwork and French knot accents worked with linen thread. Bodice is sleeveless with low neck; fastened by seven pairs of silver dangle buttons attached by linen thread (dangle buttons may be later additions). Skirt of bodice divided into four parts on each side to form tabs over hips. Garment was originally boned, as evidenced by channels sewn into linen lining. Armholes have remnants of eyelets for lacing separate sleeves in place (sleeves missing).
Label:Women sometimes wore quilted or lightly boned waistcoats when heavily boned stays were too restrictive, such as during pregnancy.

This waistcoat underwent alterations to narrow the shoulder straps and enlarge the waist. Originally, the garment had removable sleeves that fastened with cords laced through eyelets in the armholes. The fine cotton material is cord quilted with backstitches and further embellished with French knots for dense texture. Buttonholes worked on both sides of center front allow the waistcoat to be closed either by lacing or by using linked buttons, as presently fitted. Interior channels enclose remnants of boning material.
Provenance:Ex Coll: Mrs. DeWitt Clinton Cohen.