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Silk Lancé Document

1660-1690
Origin: Europe, Italy or France
Overall (H x W): 22 x 22in. (55.9 x 55.9cm) Other (Selvedge Width): 22 3/4in. (57.8cm) Other (Design Repeat (H x W)): 16 3/4 x 7in. (42.5 x 17.8cm) Physical Description (PPI): 96 Physical Description (EPI): 192
Silk
Gift of Mrs. Francis H. Lenygon.
Acc. No. 1971-293
This square fragment of fawn satin has green, blue, and pink flowers over a self-colored scroll design. The self-colored ground pattern shows interesting coiling stems and fancy volutes which form stems, vinework, and foliage for six different exotic flowers arranged in reciprocally alternating rows (thrice repeated in the width); all rendered in weft float decoration (tied in twill weave) of fawn, light blue, flesh pink, and pea green. The top edge is pinked. The bottom edge is pressed back and basted in place. The left and right edges are selvedges pressed back. The selvedge is about ¼” wide and figured with twill weave. From the outside in, there is a small (2 warps wide) stripe of plain weave, then a stripe of ascending twill in white, then a stripe of ascending twill in brown, then two stripes of white twill forming a V. There is a stitch line along the bottom, 5/8” from the edge.
Label:In the late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries, a new style developed called “bizarre” silks. Bizarre silks were loosely based on Eastern designs and featured very abstract patterns as opposed to the ultra-realism that became popular later in the eighteenth century.
Provenance:This is one of a large collection of "decorator samples" from the firm of MORANT & COMPANY, obtained by Morant & Co., 91 New Bond Street, London, before 1930. The firm, later known as LENYGON & MORANT, was transferred to New York about 1930.
Given to CWF, 1971.
Mark(s):Stamped in purple twice on the front, “NOT FOR SALE.”
Stamped in purple on reverse, “NOT FOR SALE” and 6 rectangle “MORANT & CO./91, NEW BOND ST,/LONDON, W.”