Silk Lancé Document
Origin: Europe, Probably France
Overall (H x W): 17 7/8 x 20 7/8in. (45.4 x 53cm)
Other (Selvedge Width): 17 7/8in. (45.4cm)
Other (Design Repeat (H x W)): 12 1/4 x 6 7/8in. (31.1 x 17.5cm)
Physical Description (PPI): 120
Physical Description (EPI): 144
Gift of Mrs. Francis Henry Lenygon.
Acc. No. 1973-128
This rectangular fragment of green satin has a design of curvilinear white ribbons and polychrome bouquets repeated three times across the width. The ribbons are lace patterned with various diaper patterning. At intervals, stems of flowers are tied into the ribbons. Above the tied stems are larger bouquets of roses. Instead of following contours, the lancé coloring is in horizontal stripes. The lancé was originally in shades of pink, yellow, purple, and green, but the colors are very faded. The top and bottom edges are raw. The left and right edges are selvedges. The selvedge has a very thin strip of plain weave with white warps (only 3 warps wide) followed by satin weave with warps in every lancé color used. Altogether the selvedge is 1/8” wide. There is a machine stitch line along the bottom edge. There are remnants of green thread along the left and right edges. The right edge is partially pressed back.
Label:The colors in the design of this silk textile are in stripes rather than following the shape of the design because they are held in a lancé weave rather than brocade. Since lancé goes all the way across the width of the fabric, it must remain horizontal.
Provenance:This is one of a large collection of "decorator samples" from the firm of MORANT & COMPANY, obtained by Morant & Co., 91 New Bond Street, London, before 1930. The firm, later known as LENYGON & MORANT, was transferred to New York about 1930.
Given to CWF, 1973.
Mark(s):Stamped in purple on reverse, “NOT FOR SALE.”