COLLECTION: Costumes, women

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Origin: Britain or America, worn in New York, Casanovia
OL: 50" OW: 200" Hood diameter: 42" Textile width: 64"
Red wool broadcloth, wool shag edging, silk lining for hood and beneath edging (sheer silk added over original silk during conservation), silk cording, silk covered buttons.
Museum Purchase
Acc. No. 1989-402
Woman's full-length hooded cloak of red wool broadcloth edged with mohair shag. There is a large hood, a small pointed collar, and a waist length "vest" insert at the center front, which fastens with 5 silk thread buttons underneath the front edges of the cloak. The collar at the base of the hood fastens with 2 tabs of red broadcloth which would be pinned together. The hood has a center back seam ending in a circle of 3/4-inch pleats, which concentrate the excess width of fabric at the back of the head. The hood has 2 pleats at each side of the front opening. The collar, which has 2 points at the front edges, and scalloped edges at the sides, ends in a point at the center back, which is tacked to the cloak with red thread. The collar and the hood are attached to the cloak by means of a neck band 1 1/2" wide. The bottom edges of the cloak have been left cut and unfinished.

Construction and Technical Notes: The cloak is made of 2 pieces of broadcloth, with a center back seam. It is pleated along the neckline. The buttoned vest has front pieces only, and has been stitched to the sides of the cloak, leaving an opening at the top of the seam for armholes. The edges of these pieces have been finished along their buttoning edges with red cording on top of which has been sewn red wool shag. The buttons are reinforced beneath with 3/8" circles of red broadcloth.The lower front edges have had triangular pieces added; the right piece is 21" x 2 3/4" ( at the widest point); the left one is 15 3/4" x 1 1/2". The seams have been sewn with red thread with a running stitch at 9/in. The shag trim has been attached with running stitches at 4/in. The silk which lines the hood and edges the front openings has been sewn with pink threads, in running stitches of 8/in. The vest has been sewn to the cloak with red thread in whip stitches of 3/in. The buttonholes have been finished with a buttonhole stitch of red thread. The cording has been attached with whip stitches, 14/in. The holes on the back of the cloak have been mended with a piece of red felt, darned with red thread. The collar and the hood have been attached to the neckband of the cloak with running stitches at 8/in. The tabs of the collar are top stitched with running stitches at 6/in. Three 1" long running stitches can be seen in the shag trim on the front edges of the under vest, and on the right seam which attaches the vest to the cloak.
Label:The survival of similar cloaks with histories of use throughout the northeastern United States suggests that they, along with this example, may have been imported from the same source.
Provenance:Ex. Coll Mrs. Cora Ginsburg.

Watkinson, Dickenson & Hubbard Family of Cazenovia, New York