Waistcoat
Date1780-1790
OriginEurope
MediumGreen ribbed silk, silk embroidery thread, yellow-green wool serge, cream silk lining, dark green grosgrain silk, cotton lining, green silk thread, cream silk thread, linen thread, dark green silk thread. Threads identified by eye.
DimensionsCenter Front: 17 1/2" (neck to waist), 23 3/8" (neck to hem)
Center Back: approximately 18" (neck to vent), 22 3/4" (neck to hem)
Waist: 33 1/2"
Chest: 35 3/4"
Credit LineMuseum Purchase
Object number1960-704
DescriptionMan's waistcoat of yellow-green weft-ribbed silk, embroidered in colored silks of ivory, pink, rose, and green in small rosebud motif. Embroidered ribbon edges neckline, straight fronts, cutaway, hems, and shaped pocket flaps, including a second line of ribbon stitched below the pocket flap and mirroring its curved shape. Eleven embroidered buttons. Isolated evenly spaced sprigs fill field on waistcoat fronts. All embroidery is worked in tambour stitches. Back panels are yellow-green wool twill (later enlarged with green ribbed silk), and lined with natural cotton. Fronts and skirts faced with silk twill.Construction Details: The center back panels were constructed out of yellow-green wool serge. The center back lining was constructed out of natural cotton. The green ribbed silk was embroidered using tambour stitch embroidery and silk embroidery thread. The center front panels were constructed and were lined in the natural cotton, but noticeable areas (skirts, tails, and behind the buttons and buttonholes) were lined in cream silk. A combination of backstitches and felled stitches were used to secure the various linings to the embroidered green silk, and to finish the garment. Cream silk trim decorated with pink and green floral motifs was also used to decorate the neck, center front, and pockets. Eleven buttons, fabric covered and embroidered to match, were stitched onto the center front. They were supported by a narrow buttonstand secured with a running stitch and cream silk thread. Later, the garment was widened with the addition of dark green silk grosgrain side panels; these were felled to finish, and covered with the natural cotton lining. Modern perspiration shields were also stitched under the arms.
Construction History:
1. 1770-1780: Initial Construction
2. Unknown Date: The waistcoat was made larger with the addition of a green grosgrain silk inserts along the side seams.
3. Post 1850s: Dress shields added by a sewing machine placed underarms, probably in the early 20th Century.
ProvenanceEx Coll: Doris Langley Moore.
