Images(3)

Gown

Date1750-1765

OriginEngland, Norwich

MediumGlazed worsted damask, brocaded with wool; lined with linen.

DimensionsOL: 58" Waist between lacings: 26" Skirt fullness 121"; fabric width 18".

Credit LineMuseum Purchase

Object number1988-223

DescriptionWoman's gown of pale yellow and cream two-color worsted damask in symmetrical floral pattern, brocaded over subtle sub pattern with bold floral sprigs of orange-red, magenta, green and blues. Gown is an open robe with fitted bodice. Bodice front has self-fabric robings down front, open to be worn with stomacher (missing) Lower edges of robings extend four inches below waistline, with pinked, squared-off edges. Elbow-length sleeves (cut on cross of fabric) end in pleated shaped cuffs. Full skirt, open in front to reveal petticoat, pleated to bodice in deep pleats (3/4" pleated to a depth of 2".) Skirt consists of six full widths and two half-widths at the skirt fronts. Back is fitted with stitched-down pleats extending into the skirt at center back. Bodice and sleeves lined with linen, with lacing eyelets at center fronts. Skirt seamed with backstitches using heavy natural color linen. Part of bodice stitched with yellow silk. Narrow (1/4") rolled hem. Textile retains permanent horizontal pleat marks where fabric was folded for glazing process.
Label TextWool gowns such as this rare example survive in fewer numbers than more expensive silk ones. Worn for everyday occasions and work, most of these gowns wore out or were not considered elegant enough to save. The skirt of this gown shows the sharp horizontal creases characteristic of deliberately pressed, or glazed, wool materials. The fabric was folded and placed under a press, causing the surface to become polished. The creasing was a necessary by-product of the technique.

Typical of most gowns of the period, the bodice and sleeves are lined with coarse linen.