Images(9)

Sack, Saque, Robe à la Française

DateTextile ca. 1750; gown ca. 1770

OriginEngland

MediumSilk brocaded with silver gilt and silk; linen bodice lining; silk sleeve and ruffle lining.

Dimensionsskirt: 5 21" wide panels; skirt front 38" long; skirt back 58" long.

Credit LineMuseum Purchase

Object number1968-646,1

DescriptionGown of heavy ribbed ivory silk with supplemental weft-patterned ground, heavily brocaded with silver gilt and bright silks (reds, blues, yellow, greens) in an undulating vine pattern of scrolling gilt leaves, exotic flowers, thorny stems, and naturalistic rose buds. Long sack gown has linen-lined bodice with narrow robing terminating at waist, over which is worn stomacher. Elbow length sleeves have shaped double flounces. The open front skirt (untrimmed in back) has gilt lace trimmed furbelows from waist to hem in serpentine line. Loose back. Pleated hips with pocket slits, have side fullness to be worn with hoop (#4).

Construction History:
1. Textile ca. 1750
2. Gown made ca. 1770
3. Buttoned bodice front insert of linen added at later date
4. New muslin front insert added that closes with hooks and eyes
5. Gown skirt pieced in 5 places, possibly from original petticoat
6. Alterations at sleeves, waistline, neckline
Label TextGown
Britain, silk textiles 1745-1750, remodeled ca. 1770
Silk brocaded with silk and silver gilt threads, stomacher trimmed with silver-gilt lace and silk flowers, bodice lined with linen, sleeves lined with silk, reproduction neck ruffle
1968-646, 1-3
Sleeve ruffles
Britain or Continental Europe, 1770-1785
Cotton embroidered with linen
1985-128
Despite remodeling that is especially evident in the piecing of the sack back, this gown has superlative beauty. The heavily embellished gold stomacher and gilt brocading threads glitter in the light. Wavy lines of applied trim add extra pattern to the already lavish skirt front. The petticoat, or skirt worn beneath the outer gown, is made of a different silk textile, possibly because the original petticoat was cut up for the remodeling.