Raised Work Picture by Unknown Maker

Date1660-1680

MediumSilk, silk chenille, crinkled silk, and metallic threads with wood and mica in a wood and glass frame

DimensionsFramed: OH 16 1/2" x OW 20 1/2"

Credit LineAnonymous gift

Object number1971-1639

DescriptionThis raised work picture shows the meeting between a woman and a king. The woman wears a white gown over an embroidered, floral petticoat, and a natural-colored shift. The upper sleeve of the gown on the (anatomical) right arm is stitched with pink and white thread; it appears that the entire gown was initially stitched in this way and later covered with white fabric. The gown is accented with brown trim along the neckline, a sash, blue and white fringe along the edge of the petticoat, and white boots. Her hair, which is made from bullion thread, is golden and curled. She reaches her (anatomical) left hand towards the king who leans forward to accept it. All of the figures have carved, wood hands. The king sits on a canopied throne against a background of couched, yellow, silk thread. He wears a beige and blue striped coat underneath a red and white striped mantle lined with silk embroidered to resemble ermine fur. The coat is accented with natural-colored cuffs and a neck cloth made from the same material. A chain rendered in twisted chain stitch lies across his chest. He wears breeches over knit stockings and black shoes with contrasting heels and soles. His crown is lined with white satin stitch that mimics fur. His hair and beard are brown; the former is rendered in bullion knots. He sits on a green striped cushion that is placed atop his throne. He is framed on either side by blue and white striped pillars and crocheted curtains that are trimmed with detached buttonhole stitch. These curtains are layered over stitched curtains of the same color that are trimmed with fringe. The top of the canopy is edged with braided cord and a looped fringe. The two fabrics that make up the top of the canopy are separated by a detached buttonhole stitch. More curtains hang behind the canopy, layered in front of curtains rendered in satin stitch. A tassel hangs down from this set of curtains.
Below the canopy in the foreground is a plinth decorated with a raised-work head. This plinth sits on a silk ground that is embroidered with polychrome flowers and trimmed with looped fringe. A raised-work dog stands next to the plinth. The woman is followed by two attendants, a man and a woman. The female attendant wears a blue, striped gown over a yellow, striped petticoat and a natural-colored shift. The neckline of her gown is accented with brown trim and the petticoat is edged with fringe. Her accessories consist of a necklace and striped shoes. Her hair is brown and rendered in bullion knots. The male attendant wears a striped coat over a natural-colored shirt. The coat is accented with natural-colored cuffs and a neck cloth made from the same material. He wears breeches over knit stockings and black shoes with contrasting heels and soles. His hair and beard are brown; the former is rendered in bullion knots. He carries a platter stitched in yellow thread with an ink drawing of a man's head. The woman and her attendants stand on a green ground rendered in chenille threads. Trees and shrubs made from bullion thread fill in the composition, as do a variety of bugs that occupy their branches. A raised-work structure with mica windows occupies the upper left hand corner of the picture.

Stitches: applied objects, bullion knots, couching, crochet, detached buttonhole, satin, single, split, twisted chain
Label TextOld Testament subjects were popular as needlework projects in the seventeenth century. This raised work picture depicts a scene from the story of the death of John the Baptist (Matthew 14:1-11). Here, the daughter of Herodias receives the head of John the Baptist on a platter as a reward for having pleased King Herod with her dancing.
ProvenanceAt one point, this piece was purchased from Ginsburg & Levy at 815 Madison Ave. in New York City.