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Sack, Saque, Robe à la Française

Dateca. 1770

OriginAsia, China (textile) and Europe, France

MediumHand-painted ribbed silk; linen bodice lining; silk lace trim.

DimensionsOL: 61 1/2"; Waist 23" adjusting to 26" Selvage width of textile 29 3/4"

Credit LineMuseum Purchase

Object number1993-330,A

DescriptionWoman's gown of ivory ribbed silk, hand-painted in scrolling floral and leaf design in greens, pinks, blues and orange. Gown is styled with low, squared neckline and attached, button-front stomacher fastened with 10 covered buttons and functional buttonholes at center front. Three-quarter-length sleeves end in double scalloped flounces. Skirt front is open to reveal petticoat (see petticoat "b"). Gown has sack back, falling from pleats at shoulders. Inner linen bodice is laced at center back for adjustment. Silk textile has crisp hand, woven 29 3/4" wide with temple holes in the selvages. Selvages are ribbed with four red stripes. Original silver outlining of design motifs is now tarnished to grey.
Label TextGown and Petticoat
Chinese textile, made in France, ca. 1770
Ribbed silk hand painted with pigments and silver, trimmed with silk lace, lined with linen
1993-330
Chinese artisans made textiles specifically for export to Europe and America. With its intricate hand-painted floral design and silver outlines, this textile would have been a luxury item. Styled as a robe à la française (in England, known as a sack), the back has pleats at the shoulders that release into a graceful train. The mock stomacher buttons down the front. Despite its elegance and expense, this gown shows evidence of remodeling. The skirt and petticoat once had applied ruffles or flounces.

ProvenancePurchased from a dealer in France.