Sack, Saque, Robe à la Française

Dateca. 1755 (silk); dress remodeled ca. 1770

MediumIvory silk brocaded with silver and silver gilt; cream linen bodice lining; silver gilt trim; cream skirt and pocket linings.

DimensionsOL: 51 1/2"; Waist: 27" Shoulder Width: 10" Selvage width of textile: 20".

Credit LineGift of Mrs. Cora Ginsburg

Object number1990-12,1

DescriptionWoman's sack-back gown of ivory silk brocaded with silver gilt threads in large and small flowers and decorated with later silver gilt lace trim along the open front edges of the gown, and along the edges of the sleeve ruffles. The silver gilt trim (a later addition) is of a lacy, scalloped design, 1 1/4" at its widest. Gown has elbow length sleeves. The sleeve edges are decorated with 2 ruffles with scalloped edges that would hang from the back of the arm over the elbow, one 6" deep, the other 9" deep. Each sleeve has a metal weight under the ruffles. The front of the gown is closed with a false stomacher which fastens with 7 functional buttons covered in silk brocade. The buttonholes are finished with a buttonhole stitch in cream silk thread. The gown is of the sack back style, with pleats of fabric stitched down 2 1/2" below the squared neckline in the back, which then fall freely to the ground below the stitching line. The skirts of the gown are very full, with pleats at the sides to add fullness over the hips. The side seams open with 9-inch pocket slits from the waistline.
Label TextThis sumptuous gown is fashioned from stiff silk brocaded with glittering metallic silver to reflect the available light. The rich textile and wide hoops mark it as formal wear in an era when fashionable daytime clothing no longer had significant side fullness. Unlike many other dresses that had removable triangular stomachers, this gown has panels on the bodice that are stitched in place and closed with buttons and buttonholes down the center front. Button-front mock stomachers such as this example came into fashion during the mid-1760s. The silver-gilt lace trim is not original.