Shift

DateCa. 1650 (Textile)

MediumLinen Damask (Ground Fabric); Silk Thread (Construction)

DimensionsLength: 30": Width (from wrist to wrist): 46 1/2"; Sleeve Length: 12 1/4"; Napkins- Width: 22"; Length: 30"

Credit LineGift of Colonel & Mrs. Miodrag R. Blagojevich

Object number1973-267

DescriptionNatural linen damask bodice fashioned from 17th century napkin with designs in comber repeat. Wide scooped neckline and wide, unshaped, short sleeves. Shift would likely only reach the hips of the wearer and is gusseted to flare at the hips. Designs include humans, animals, and buildings (Described in further detail below). Gussets composed of two triangular fragments of cloth pieced together are used at the side of either hip to create flare at the bottom of the shift. a larger triangular gusset is inserted at the center bottom of the back. Gussets are also inserted at the underarms of each sleeve. Bottom hem and sleeves are finished by folding under the raw edge and stitching with white silk thread. The neckline is finished with a length of twill tape around the interior edge. "M" or "III" in brown silk embroidery at bottom left corner.

The back of the shirt depicts the pattern oriented correctly. Designs include a male figure and animal, possibly a lion, above the word "BABEL" at the neckline. "BABEL" reads left to right on the right half of the shift but is reflected over the middle so that it is backwards on the lefthand side. Also pictured are buildings with a central archway, spires, flying banners. Some spires are also depicted with crosses at their peaks which may indicate a church or religious structure. Below the buildings are the words "DARIVS [DV] FIRSTEN". The structure is likely either Babylon or Jerusalem as the bible refers to the "First year of Darius" as the setting for Daniel's vision of Jerusalem standing empty for seventy years.

Below the buildings, near the bottom hem of the shift, are men appearing arm in arm, standing before an elegant, seated figure who appears to be holding a scepter. The figure is seated on a low-back bench. This could refer to the biblical story of Daniel's three companions being brought before the king in the book of Daniel. Below the figures, at the base of the shift are the words "DANIEL DE/TET" (Possibly translated to "The head of Daniel" or "Daniel's Head"). The words are also reflected over the middle of the shirt so they are show in reverse on the opposite side. The front of the shirt orients the pattern so that it is upside down to the viewer but includes the same figures as the back with one addition. The pattern continues past the figures arm in arm so that below the words "DANIEL DE/TET" is a motif of a central tree flanked by two figures on their knees. This single tree could refer to the biblical tale from the book of Daniel in which the king Nebuchadnezzer envisions a single tree that shelters the world. On either side of the lions is a structure, possible a mausoleum or small fortress.

Over the top of the left sleeve are the words (or name) "DANIEL/INDERLE/ENGR[I]SE". It is likely that these words are meant to be read "DANIEL IN DERLE EN GRISE" which translates to "Daniel to take over". The words are within a cartouche being held on either side by figure on one knee and below them another figure of a man whose body is cut off by the termination of the sleeve. The right sleeve includes a portion of the religious building used at the front and back of the garment body.

Construction History:
1. ca. 1750: Linen Tablecloth constructed
2. Shift constructed
Markings"M" or "III" in brown silk embroidery at bottom left corner
ProvenanceDiscovered by Mrs. Blagojevich in a 17th c. paper filigree decorated dressing box which she owns.