Images(2)

KC1975-983
Shown: 1975-340,1-3 and 1975-340,4A&B

Sack, Saque, Robe à la Française

Dateca. 1750 (textile); ca. 1770 (gown remodeled)

OriginAmerica, Virginia (gown) and England, London, Spitalfields (textile)

MediumSilk brocaded, linen lined bodice, cotton padding

DimensionsL: (front-top of shoulder to hem) 52"; (center back) 58 1/2"

Credit LineGift of Mrs. R. Keith Kane and daughters: Mrs. James H. Scott, Jr., Mrs. Timothy Childs, Mrs. N., Beverly Tucker, Jr., and Mrs. Lockhart B. McGuire

Object number1975-340,1

DescriptionWoman's gown of ivory silk lustring (taffeta) with brocaded floral bouquets (in reds, rose, purple, blues, yellow, greens) entertwined with ivory weft-float pattern of trailing vine and purple cone-like flowers. Gown has open front style (with matching petticoat) and loose, pleated sack back ( also called robe a la Francais). Each sleeve has a single (lined) flounce; neckline, front bodice, and gown skirt are trimmed with ruched or pleated robings and flounces edged with multi-colored silk fly-fringe. Bodice and sleeves lined with linen.
Label TextGown and Petticoat
Spitalfields, England, textile, gown worn in Virginia by Elizabeth Dandridge Aylett Henley, silk textile ca. 1750, remodeled ca. 1770
Silk brocaded with silk, bodice lined with linen, trimmings padded with cotton
G1975-340, 1-2, gift of Mrs. R. Keith Kane and daughters, Mrs. James H. Scott, Jr., Mrs. Lockhart B. McGuire, Mrs. Timothy W. Childs, and Mrs. N. Beverly Tucker, Jr.

Family tradition states that Martha Washington's sister, Elizabeth, wore this graceful sack-back gown. Elizabeth subsequently willed it to her daughter-in-law to be cut up and used as furniture coverings. Fortunately, the gown never suffered that fate and was passed down intact.

As with many gowns of expensive imported silk, this gown was remodeled about 20 years after it was first made. Textiles were too valued to throw away when the gown became old-fashioned. It is conceivable that these alterations were done because imported silks were being targeted as prohibited imports during the events leading up to the Revolutionary War. It might have been considered patriotic to remake an old gown, rather than import new English silk.

ProvenanceFamily tradition states that this garment (as well as G1975-341, slippers) belonged originally to Elizabeth Dandridge (b. 1749). She married twice: 1773 (at 24) and 1779 (at 30 yrs. of age). Henley was her second husband and the items descended in the Dandridge-Henley-Kane families. She was sister to Martha Washington.