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Gown, ivory silk damask

Dateca. 1760

OriginAsia, China (textile) and England (probably) (dress)

MediumSilk, linen

DimensionsOL 59 inches Selvage width 29 1/4 inches Waist up to 30 inches Pattern vertical repeat 20 5/8 inches

Credit LineGift of The Valentine Museum, Richmond, VA

Object number2022-130

DescriptionWoman's round gown of ivory silk damask woven in a pattern of large twining stems, leaves, and peony-type flowers arranged in three pattern repeats between the selvages. The linen-lined bodice has folded robings running from the shoulders down to the waist, open in the center front for a triangular stomacher (missing) or a kerchief. Extensions of the linen bodice lining down the center fronts could be used for lacing or pinning a stomacher in place. The front waistline has a peplum extension about 1 1/2 inches below the waist. The sleeves end in cuffs at the elbows. The center back bodice has stitched-down pleats running from the neckline to the waist, then releasing to open below the waist into the fullness of the skirt. The unlined skirt consists of five full-width panels of damask, with deep pleats at the waist. The skirt front is folded under at the waist, pleated, and overcast to hold the pleats in place. Narrow self-fabric ties are stitched to the side waist. The skirt hem is folded over twice and stitched; stitch evidence suggest there was once a hem facing. Gown has some holes and worn areas; stains on skirt.

Textile notes: The textile measure 29 1/4 inches wide and the selvages have two pale red stripes flanking an ivory stripe. Selvages show evidence of regular disturbances or multiple holes from the use of a forked stick during weaving to maintain the accurate width of the textile. The selvages are slashed at intervals.
Label TextAlthough many gowns of the eighteenth century are open in the front to reveal a separate skirt, called a petticoat, this gown is a type often known as a "round gown," with the skirt running all the way around. The drop-front panel of the skirt ties in position at the waist.

The silk damask was woven in China for the export market. Evidence of Chinese manufacture includes the fact that this textile was woven over 29 inches wide, compared to narrower widths of English and European silks. The Chinese selvages also show evidence of holes from the use of a forked stick to maintain the textile width during weaving.
Markings"V.2000.54" on cotton tag sewn to inside back neckline (Valentine Museum accession number).
ProvenancePrior to 2000, [Titi Halle of Cora Ginsburg, LLC New York, NY]; 2000, given to the Valentine Museum (Richmond, VA )in memory of Susan Varner and Suzanne Arena; 2022, given to The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation (Williamsburg, VA)