Images(8)

Dress

Dateca. 1805

OriginEngland

MediumCotton, block printed to shape; bodice lined with cotton. Double blue line found in selvage of the cotton lining the bodice.

Dimensionsa. OL: 76" Fabric selvage width 33 3/4"; Back shoulder width 7" b. & c. OL 22 1/2"

Credit LineMuseum Purchase

Object number1991-449,A-C

DescriptionWoman's gown of blue cotton, block-printed in a design of red, white, and black irregular spots, bordered with red-ground printed bands filled with elongated irregular shapes.The gown has a low rounded neckline, with a front drop panel opening at the proper right side from the shoulder down to the end of the pocket slit. Double sleeves end at the elbows (with optional long sleeves, or mitts, b & c). The raised waistline is gathered to a narrow (1/4" wide) waistband. The gathers create fullness over the bust and are drawn in at the top neckline with a drawstring. Narrow self-fabric ties are stitched under the arms, extending around to the front to tie under the bustline. The back of gown has a very narrow shoulder width, with a concentration of skirt fullness at the center back. The long, somewhat full skirt sweeps into a long train, with pocket slits at both sides. The inner bodice is of white unpatterned cotton with blue threads in the selvages. The inner bodice is shaped with a drawstring to tie at center front. Back bodice and sleeve linings are of the same textile. The skirt train has a loop stitched to the back side 9 1/4 inches up from from the center-back hem and pairs of linen tape ties fastening at the waist and about 10 inches down from the waist (one of the two lower tapes is missing). These serve to loop or fasten the train up.
Note: The textile was printed "to form" or "a disposition," intended for a trained gown.The curved hem border design is printed in one with the ground at center back and center front; the remaining trimmings were cut and stitched to the neckline, sleeves, and skirt side hems.

B & C. The gown can be worn with a pair of matching thumbless mitts or removable long tight sleeves; they are unlined.
Label TextThis small-scale spotted pattern was printed especially for a gown of this style. The red borders outlining the hem of the curved train and the skirt front are printed to the finished shape, not stitched on separately. The remaining red trimmings around the sleeves and neckline are cut from the printed yardage and stitched in place.

The red and blue printing technique is usually known as the “lapis style,” named for the semiprecious stone with a blue ground. The printing method involved printing a mordant (color fixative) for red in with a resist paste before dyeing in indigo blue.

This graceful gown exemplifies the neoclassical style with a raised waistline and skirt falling close to the body. The bodice closes by means of a drop panel fastening in place at the proper right shoulder. Removable matching mitts could be used to cover the arms down to the wrists for warmth or protection from the sun.