Gown, Round Gown

Date1730s; gown remodeled ca. 1750

MediumGreen silk brocaded with polychrome silk; linen bodice linings; green silk skirt lining; green silk twill tape. cream silk facing at opening, cream silk ribbon trim, dark brown twill tape.

DimensionsOL:56 1/4" WAIST: 27"; Shoulder width: 10 1/4"; Selvage width: 19"; Waist to hem: 37 1/2" (center front), 43 1/2" ( center back)

Credit LineGift of Mrs. Cora Ginsburg

Object number1990-16,1

DescriptionWomen's qown consisting of bodice and drop-front skirt of green silk brocaded with blue, red, and orange flowers, and a lacy background pattern of white. Gown has elbow-length sleeves with double ruffles and is further decorated on the sleeve ruffles and along the front edges with applied cream silk trim. The bodice has an open front edged with a 2 1/2" robings decorated with petal-shaped designs of gathered cream silk ribbon (1/2" wide). These robings or pleats of fabric run over the shoulders and are connected to the facing across the squared back neck line. The ribbon trim is used in 2 rows, 3/4" apart across the shoulders and along the back edge. The center back has 2 sets of stitched-down pleats, which are fastened down the back until they reach the waistline, where they open into pleats as part of the skirt. Bodice is lined with cream linen, with the front edges faced with 2 1/2" of cream silk. The left side front seam of the facing has a dark brown twill tape over it. The sleeves are fitted and reach to the elbow. They are slightly gathered at the cap. The sleeves end in double ruffles, one 7 3/4" and one 10 1/2" deep, which fall from the back of the sleeve. The edges of the ruffles, both at top and bottom, are decorated with a row of gathered cream ribbon. Ruffles are lined with cream linen. The skirt front is a drop panel, pleated to a green twill tape, which ties around the waist. The skirt's openings at the top of the pocket slits are secured with brass hooks and eyes. The skirt is lined with green silk, which has a missing section at center back 22 3/4" wide and extending from waist to hem. The skirt back is 6" longer than the front.
Label TextRemarkably, a dress bodice was laid aside and saved after the gown was altered to keep up with fashion changes (see 1990-16,2). The shape of the early bodice, the full, cuffed sleeves, and the pattern on the brocaded green silk are typical of 1730s and 1740s styles. The earlier gown probably had a wide skirt worn with a hoop and a matching petticoat.
The gown was remade in its present shape sometime in the 1750s. The new sleeves end in graceful ruffles that had come into fashion around mid-century, replacing heavy cuffs. The remodeled gown has a closed skirt with a front drop panel, eliminating the need for a separate petticoat. In all likelihood, the original petticoat was cut up to make the new bodice, sparing the original bodice from being used.