Silk Brocade, Lancé, and Cannelé

Date1760-1770

MediumSilk and silk chenille

DimensionsOverall (H x W): 18 1/4 x 20in. (46.4 x 50.8cm) Other (Design Repeat (H x W)): 15 1/4 x 10 1/4in. (38.7 x 26cm) Physical Description (EPI): 88 Physical Description (PPI): 88

Credit LineGift of Mrs. Francis Henry Lenygon.

Object number1972-488

DescriptionThis is a rectangular fragment of pink, textured silk with a design of naturalistically colored floral bouquets and S-curves that repeats twice across the width.

The bouquets are comprised of red and pink roses, berries, and buds with green and brown stems. They are accompanied by a generic flower brocaded in over-twisted cream yarn, a round bud or flower brocaded in chenille, and a spray of small, white flowers. The bouquets sit over a cross-hatching of curvilinear, abstract lines and a floral vine. Unlike the flowers in the bouquets, the flowers on the vine are not naturalistic. They appear to be a combination of flowers and ribbon bows, with the ground color provided by the plain weave ground rather than brocading. They are accompanied by sprays of small white flowers, and a flower brocaded with over-twisted lavender yarn.

The fragment is heavily pieced together to create a full vertical and horizontal repeat. Though no single piece extends between two selvedges, fragments of the selvedge are present at the bottom right and top center. The selvedge is a width of plain weave with undyed wefts and yarns in every brocade color twisted with undyed yarns for the warp. The remainder of the edges are raw.

Label TextThis bright, rococo fabric combines the techniques of brocade and cannellé (warp float patterning) to create a pattern that is both delicate and textural. French designs such as this one illustrate the stark contrast between French and English silks that developed around the middle of the eighteenth century. In England, backgrounds were generally muted and the designs were naturalistic and delicate. As this fragment illustrates, designs in France were bright, slightly abstract, and embraced cutting-edge technology. Prior to coming to Colonial Williamsburg, this fragment was acquired by an interior decorating firm where it was pieced together and repaired with embroidery to form a full vertical and horizontal repeat.
MarkingsStamped on reverse: “4278” and “NOT FOR SALE.”
ProvenanceThis is one of a large collection of "decorator samples" from the firm of MORANT & COMPANY, obtained by Morant & Co., 91 New Bond Street, London, before 1930. The firm, later known as LENYGON & MORANT, was transferred to New York about 1930.
Given to CWF, 1972.