Silk Brocade Document

Date1750-1760

MediumSilk

DimensionsOverall (H x W): 29 3/8 x 20 1/8in. (74.6 x 51.1cm) Other (Selvedge Width): 20 1/8in. (51.1cm) Other (Design Repeat (H x W)): 20 3/4 x 9 7/8in. (52.7 x 25.1cm) Physical Description (PPI): 72 Physical Description (EPI): 80

Credit LineMuseum Purchase

Object number1970-53

DescriptionThis rectangular fragment of blue taffeta features a brocaded design of red and pink flowers and white ribbons. The ribbon is formed into deep S-curves up a meander. Large flowers are evenly interspersed along the ribbon, and white floral vines entwine the ribbon. Between the large flowers are diapered, diamond-shaped cartouches with a single, small bud in the center. The pattern repeats vertically and horizontally, but with each repeat comes a color variation in the pattern. There is no repeat of the colors in the same location on the textile. The top and bottom edges are raw, and the left and right edges are selvedges. The selvedge is held in a plain weave and has a white and a pink stripe inside an outer border of the body color. From outside in, there are ten warps of blue twisted with white, then three thicker white warps, and three thicker pink warps (1/8” wide). There are stitch lines along the left, right, and bottom edges. In the stitch line on the right edge, there are remnants of brown 2-ply S yarn. In the stitch line on the bottom edge, which was pressed back at some point, there are remnants of blue 2-ply Z yarn, and undyed linen yarn, onto which a small piece of batting or roving is attached. At the top center, a small piece of coarser fabric in the same shade of blue is stitched onto the reverse. There are remnants of the same blue 2-ply Z yarn in a U shape at the top right of the fragment.
Label TextThis bright fabric is typical of French color choices in the middle of the eighteenth century. While many English silk designs favored naturalistic colors on light grounds, the French went with exuberant colors on saturated grounds.
MarkingsNo marks or inscriptions.
ProvenanceObtained by Cora Ginsburg, textile collector and dealer, New York;
Given to CWF, 1970.