Silk Brocade Document

Date1695-1730

MediumSilk

DimensionsOverall (H x W): 32 3/8 x 31 3/4in. (82.2 x 80.6cm) Other (Selvedge Width): 21 3/4in. (55.2cm) Other (Design Repeat (H x W)): 17 3/4 x 10 1/2in. (45.1 x 26.7cm) Physical Description (PPI): 56 Physical Description (EPI): 128

Credit LineMuseum Purchase

Object number1973-414,1

DescriptionThis bell-shaped blue fragment has a lacy, symmetrical pattern on a blue ground. The white lace patterning forms cartouches inside of which are abstract vases with lace/diaper patterned floral bouquets. The white patterning is created through areas of plain weave instead of the blue satin weave. Small flowers and leaves are brocaded in yellow, pinks, greens, purples, and blues. The left and right edges are selvedges until they angle in, after which they are raw. The top and bottom edges are raw. The selvedges are held in a plain weave with white, corded warps. From the outside in, there is a thin warp, then a thick warp bound to a thin warp every three wefts, then a thick warp, then six thin warps. Just inside the selvedge is a 3/16” section of blue satin before the figured design.There is a seam about eight inches from the top. There is also a semicircular patch in the upper right corner. The seams are not pattern matched. Both are stitched with light blue yarn in spaced backstitches.
Label TextSilk designs in the beginning of the eighteenth century were dense, formal, and symmetrical, but as this piece shows, could also be delicate.
MarkingsThere is a tag on the reverse of the upper right saying, “2427/2 yds in 3 pcs.”
ProvenanceThis is one of a large collection of "decorator samples" from the firm of MORANT & COMPANY, obtained by Morant & Co., 91 New Bond Street, London, before 1930. The firm, later known as LENYGON & MORANT, was transferred to New York about 1930.