Images(3)

Sack, Saque, Robe à la Française

Date1770-1780

OriginEngland

MediumSilk brocaded with silk, trimmed with silk; linen bodice and sleeve lining.

DimensionsA: OL 56 1/4" B. Petticoat OL 36" C. Stomacher 11 X 15"

Credit LineGift of Mrs. Cora Ginsburg

Object number1991-472,A

DescriptionWoman's sack-back gown of cream color silk self patterned with stripes and leaves in weft floats or supplementary wefts, brocaded with red, cream, and green roses arranged in stripes. The gown has open front (for stomacher) and open skirt to reveal matching petticoat. The bodice robings and skirt have serpentine ruching edged with woven scalloped braid. Tight sleeves end in a shirred band of self fabric and triple ruffles (ruffles unlined). Bodice and sleeves lined with tabby linen. Back of gown hangs in pleats from the shoulders ("robe a la Francaise.") Gown side hips have buttons for looping up. Skirt hem faced with 8" wide band of thin silk. See B & C for petticoat and stomacher.
Label TextGown
England, 1770-1780
Brocaded silk; linen and silk linings; linen tape; silk fringe; linen and silk sewing threads; replacement brass hooks
G1991-472a, gift of Cora Ginsburg
The gown's fitted linen lining holds the front close to the body while the loose rear pleats fall gracefully from the shoulders. The deep back pleats were sewn in position through to the lining about four inches down from the neckline. They are caught with long running and herringbone stitches. Additional pleats over the hips add side fullness.
Colorful brocading threads decorate the ribbed silk textile. Brocading threads are used only where the pattern requires extra color. They do not extend from selvage (edge) to selvage. The textile is further decorated with a subtle subpattern using cream-colored warp and weft floats.
The bodice was worn with a triangular stomacher at the center front. The stomacher and the matching petticoat are shown elsewhere in the exhibit.

Markings"Mary Nisbit" embroidered into gown