Images(18)

Gown

Date1785-1795

OriginAmerica, New Hampshire, Manchester

MediumCotton, Linen, White Silk Thread (used for basting), Brown Silk (Used for Construction), Linen Thread (Used for Lining Construction). All threads confirmed through microscopic analysis.

DimensionsOverall Length: 72 inches; Selvage Width: 34 inches; Waist: 42 inches; Bust: 44 inches, Center Front Measure: 13.5 inches

Credit LineMuseum Purchase

Object number2004-97

DescriptionWoman's unfinished gown missing the sleeves and portions of trim on skirt. Gown is made of highly glazed brown or chocolate-ground cotton with white and lavender floral print. Design of print consists of asymmetrical floral vine meanders enclosing bouquets caught by ribbon bowknots. Bodice has deep scoop neckline with center-front edge-to-edge closure (probably intended to be pinned). Self-covered buttons trim either side of bodice, forming mock double-breasted effect. Full skirt is open at front to reveal petticoat(missing). Skirt is pleated to waistline in a series of small box pleats temporary basting stitches to hold pleats in position. Skirt front has woven looped fringe stitched vertically down proper left side paralleling the opening; trimming is missing or unfinished on part of the right side. Gown back has stitched-down pleats that extend down into the center back of the skirt (so-called "English back"). Bodice is lined with coarse linen. Skirt unlined. Skirt hem is narrow, but widens to form angled shorter center fronts.

Construction details: The gown appears to be in the process of being made. The armscye area indicates that sleeves were once sewn in and taken out, possibly because the extremely high underarm area did not fit the woman. The bodice and skirt fabrics do not appear to have old fold or stitch lines. The front bodice is pieced on the proper right side, possibly to make the floral pattern appear to side-join visually. There is no evidence of any pin holes on the center front closure, suggesting this gown was probably never worn.
Label TextThis gown is a very unique and a rare survivor, frozen in time while it was in production. The gown is nearly complete, however lacking sleeves, but evidence shows that they were once stitched on and then removed. Perhaps there was a problem in the fitting? Silk basting stitches remain along the pleats to hold them in place. Another row of basting down the center front of the skirt panel marks the position of a fine white silk fringed trim yet to be applied and may suggest several hands working on the project. With no evidence of pin holes down the center front for closing, the remarkable condition of the highly glazed cotton, and no wear on the garment, it seems as if the gown was never worn.

This brown or chocolate grounded printed cotton uses several techniques to create the patterns. It was not the typical practice to print patterns on a dyed cloth, but to dye the cloth after the patterns have been printed. First, the outlines of all the floral motifs were block printed in black with wide outlines. Then, another block added the stripes to the ribbons and floral details. Finally the ground needed to be filled through a padding machine. The printer applied a protective resist paste over top of the already printed flowers, then the fabric moved through a series rollers that evenly spread and worked the colorant into textile. Finally the fabric was finished with a high glaze.
ProvenanceAccording to dealer, the gown came out of an estate in Manchester, New Hampshire over 20 years ago (approx. 1980s). It, and another one, were purchased by Colette Donovan, an ADA member. The other dress is at Historic Deerfield. This example was kept in Donovan's private collection until recently.