Images(3)

Jacket and Petticoat

Date1775-1785

MediumSilk embroidery threads on silk; linen linings (confirmed by microscope 3/31/2015)

DimensionsJacket OL 26"; Chest 40"; waist 34"; shoulder width between sleeve seams 13 1/2" Petticoat OL 39"; waist (replaced) 24"; circumference 112 1/2" Silk textile selvage width 19 3/8"

Credit LineGift of Susan LaRue

Object number2015-155,A&B

DescriptionWoman’s two-piece gown consisting of a long-sleeved jacket and full petticoat, embroidered with multicolor silks on cream ribbed and moired silk in a meandering vine and floral pattern.

#A. The jacket is made to be fitted closely to the bodice, closing at center front, and intended to be pinned shut. Peplum flares out over the hips in one piece with the bodice, without a separate waistline seam. The low, rounded neckline has no trimmings or collar. Long fitted sleeves are shaped to curve over the elbows. Jacket is lined in the bodice and skirts with coarse plain-woven linen and in the sleeves with finer plain-woven linen.

#B. Matching full petticoat is gathered to replacement brown cotton waistband. Hem tape finishing the bottom edge is now missing, but stitch marks show that it was in place originally. The petticoat now fastens at the center back with a placket. Probably originally pleated to a now-missing waistband.
Label TextThis ensemble made of eighteenth-century silk embroidery was handed down and kept as an heirloom as the family moved west to South Dakota and Nebraska. Original family members were located in Virginia and Norway. The silk embroidery and relatively early cut of the garment make it a fascinating study document of family continuity and fashion.
ProvenanceAccording to donor, the gown and petticoat have a history in the Ackerly/Holland family.