Jacket
Date1760-1780
OriginEurope (probably)
MediumGreen and cream silk damask or lampas (reverse not visible); lining of tabby linen; coral silk facings and cuff linings.
DimensionsL. 14 1/2"; Chest 29"; Waist 24 1/2" (without missing stomacher)
Credit LineMuseum Purchase
Object number1953-855
DescriptionWoman's fitted jacket of light green lampas or damask with symmetrical pattern of naturalistic floral spray and scrolling stems in ivory. Tight- fitting bodice with open front designed to be worn with stomacher or kerchief. (There is little evidence of original closure, but mended areas suggest that ribbons or pins were once used to close the front over a stomacher.) Center-front extends in rounded points below waist. Separate peplum with single pleat is stitched to the waistline at each side. Center-back seam has the pattern matched, and extends below the waist in a modified diamond shape. Two-piece elbow sleeves with seams at front and back. Sleeves have applied cuffs shaped by horizontal pleating. Bodice and sleeves are lined with plain-woven natural linen, covering all raw edges of the garment. (Pieces appear to have been first lined, then stitched together.) The linings are edged or faced with one-inch coral silk ribbon down front of bodice and on cuffs. Linings are fastened close to edges of silk fashion fabric with stitch that creates the appearance of top-stitching close to the edge (French: point a rabattre sous la main). Stitched with green silk.Construction History:
1. 1760-1780: Initial construction
2. April 4, 1956: Cleaning, checking, restoring by Ernest LoNano.
ProvenanceEX Coll. James Frere, Bluemantle Pursuivant of the College of Heralds. Exhibited London Museum, Lancaster House.
1740-1750
Textile: mid-18thc.; remade 1780s.
ca. 1780
ca. 1745, with later alterations
1730-1745
ca. 1760
ca. 1785
1750-1765
1770-1780
1747-1750 (textile); 1760-1775 (gown) altered later
1765-1780
1787-1795