Images(3)

Dress and sleeve

Date1825-1826

OriginAmerica, New York, Long Island, Flushing (worn in)

MediumSilk, silk gauze, silk satin, linen

DimensionsA: OL from the shoulder to the hem 50 ½ in.; Bust 37 ¼ in.; Waist 31 in. B: OL 26 3/8 in.

Credit LineGift of The Valentine Museum, Richmond, VA

Object number2023-171,A&B

DescriptionA: Dress made of cream silk woven with a floral pattern with long sleeves and raised waistline. Sleeves consist of a short, full undersleeve and a sheer, silk gauze oversleeve. Dress has a wide neckline with a bertha collar extending in points over the sleeves. Bertha collar and cuffs are trimmed with bands of cream rouleaux trim. The bodice has cream piping running down the center front. The seams in the back of the bodice are piped. Dress has a cream silk satin waistband. The dress fastens down the center back bodice with a series of hooks and eyes. The cuffs fasten with a hook and eye set. The bodice is lined with linen. The hem is faced with linen. The sleeves are lined with buckram.

B: Full length sleeve made of sheer silk gauze with a cuff made of cream silk woven with a floral pattern, to match 2023-171,A. Cuff has rouleaux trimmed petals extending back. Two flower shaped pieces are sewn at the shoulder, made of cream silk woven with a floral pattern and rouleaux trim.

Construction History:
1. Dress constructed with original sleeves (2023-171,B). ca. 1825-1826
2. According to donor history, "the following year the dress was let out by putting in a gore and the lace was added & also the ribbon around the bottom of the waist". Original sleeves replaced with current sleeves. Silk panel added to widen back. Bodice darts adjusted in the lining. Waistband raised, and silk ribbon added overtop. Hem adjusted. Collar and trim adjusted to come to a point in front. Alterations may have taken place ca. 1830.
3. Collar and trim adjusted to current style. Conservation work may have been done to preserve the collar.
Label TextThe reuse of clothing and textiles often matches the recurrence of fashion styles. When this dress was originally constructed for a wedding ca. 1825, it sported a less volunimous sleeve. The current sleeves were added to match the leg of mutton fashion in the 1830s. While that fashion deflated by the 1840s, large sleeves returned to popularity in the 1890s, when a descendant was photographed wearing this dress.
Provenance1825-1826 worn by Mary Elizabeth Lawrence (Flushing, NY); ca. 1881-1892, passed down by descent and worn by Maud Mary Mitchell (New York, NY); prior to 1980, passed down by descent to Marion Webb Strauch (Mathews County, VA); 1980 given to the Valentine Museum (Richmond, VA); 2023-present given to Colonial Williamsburg Foundation (Williamsburg, VA)