Waistcoat

Date1720-1750

MediumGreen ribbed silk, embroidered with silk and metal threads, green silk twill, cream twill silk, yellow silk, fustian, cream linen, silk thread, linen thread, 26 remaining buttons (thread and metal covered to match), probably vellum, hooks and eyes.

DimensionsCenter Front: 20" (neck to waist), 35 1/2" (neck to hem) Center Back: 20" (neck to vent), 32" (neck to hem) Waist: 35" Chest: 39"

Credit LineMuseum Purchase

Object number1967-130

DescriptionSleeved waistcoat made of green ribbed silk with cream silk twill lining pieced-out with later gold silk. Cotton and linen fustian back lining. Waistcoat has fitted top, shaped into flared skirt with center-back and side vents; 23 buttons of metallic-gold and silk-twist extend from neck to hem with five actual buttonholes at waistline; Button placement includes 8 on left side front, and 15 on right side. One buttonhole and button at neck is also included. Upper portion of sleeve and back of green twill silk; back lined as noted above. Embroidery in multi-colored silks (mauve, lavender, coral, pink, rust, blues, greens, golds), and metallic-gold and silver couching, conforms to the cut of upper front, skirt, pocket flaps, and below -elbow sleeves. Design of heavy embroidery combines lace-patterned elements, scrolling ribbons, with large pomegranates, flowers, stems, and leaves worked in long and short and satin stitches, metal couching, and sequins.

Construction Details: The entire garment is interlined with cream linen, which is whipped to the green ribbed silk. The center back was constructed out of green silk twill, cream linen inner lining, and fustian lining; the center back seam is secured with a running stitch, and overcast stitches are used to finish the edges. However, this is an alteration from the original, as the garment has been taken in. The center front panels are lined with pieced fustian, cream silk twill, and gold silk. These are secured to the green embroidered silk, which is lined with cream linen, with a running stitch. A running stitch is also used to finish the garment. The sleeves are constructed out of two panels; a main sleeve and a cuff. The main sleeve is constructed out of green silk twill, lined with fustian and likely with linen, and felled to the embroidered cuffs. The cuffs are finished with a running stitch. The embroidered trim on the green ribbed silk is likely supported with vellum. There are twenty-six buttons remaining, with buttons present on both sides of the garment. The center left front includes eight buttons and six buttonholes, while the center right front has fifteen remaining buttons; these are thread and metal covered to match.

Construction History:
Ca. 1720-1750: The garment is originally constructed.
Post Initial Construction: The waistcoat is split up the center back and taken in. Yellow silk facings are added, as well as two hooks and eyes in the center front. The sleeves were removed, then sewn back into the garment with whip stitches, and the shoulders were altered.
ProvenanceMr. Warner says: "From Rydal Hall, Grasmere, Westmorland, and stated to have been worn by Sir William Fleming." Sir William Fleming of Rydal (1656-1736) was created the first Baronet in 1705, and was a member of Parliament from 1696 to 1700 and from 1704 to 1705.