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2023-38,1-3, Suit: Coat
Suit: Coat, Waistcoat, Breeches
2023-38,1-3, Suit: Coat

Suit: Coat, Waistcoat, Breeches

Date1765-1780
MediumSilk, Linen, Horn
DimensionsCoat: Center front: 39.5 inches Center back to vent: 22.25 inches Overall back: 38.25 inches Chest: 42 inches Waist: 36.5 inches Waistcoat: Overall center front length: 27 inches Center front to cut away: 21.5 inches Center back to vent: 21 inches Overall back: 26 inches Chest: 41 inches Waist, 38 inches. Breeches: Inseam: 16.25 inches Out seam: 20 inches Waist: 35 inches
Credit LineGift of The Valentine Museum, Richmond, VA
Object number2023-38,1-3
DescriptionCoat:
A straight bodied (functioning buttons all the way down) coat made from a drab colored heavy silk. The neck edge is finished with a small standing collar. Two pocket flaps on each coat front open to functioning pockets underneath made from a course variegated white and brown linen. The body and sleeves have been fully relined. Each of the pleats in the coat have been unstitched and are now no longer stacked in the proper order, however the original crease lines remain. Scarring on the cuffs sleeves of the coat suggests that the cuffs were made smaller and updated within the lifetime of the owner.

Construction History:
1) Initial Construction ca. 1755-1765
2) Updated ca. 1775, reducing the size of the cuffs to the current style.
3) 20th century fully relined the interior of the coat

Waistcoat:
Waistcoat without sleeves made from a heavy drab silk. Twelve buttons close the garment down the center front. The buttonholes are worked open wide with only a small ¼ - ½ inch left closed at the end. A narrow band is stitched around the neck to keep it from stretching. The back of the waistcoat is made from silk. The pocket bags are made from a very course variegated linen. Most of the waistcoat has been modernly relined but the pocket flap reveals the matching light drab silk lining that would have been throughout the garment in the period.

Construction History:
1) Initial Construction ca. 1755-1765
2) Updated ca. 1775, letting out the sides of the waistcoat and recutting the skirts of the waistcoat.
3) 20th century fully relined the interior of the waistcoat.

Breeches:
A pair of heavy drab silk breeches fully lined in off white linen. The breeches are made with a flap or fall front that fasten closed to the waist band with two buttons. Each of the knees close with four buttons, which are the only original buttons left on the garment, the rest are replaced. The breeches have two pockets and a fob or watch pocket that opens from the top of the waistband. The back of the waistband of the breeches closes with a tape and two eyelets. Garters at the knees were meant to close with a buckle. The interior of the buttonhole side of the knees is faced in a tightly woven brown linen.

Construction History:
1) Initial Construction ca. 1755-1765
2) Ca. 1900 original buttons removed and replaced with the addition of suspender buttons.
Label TextThis drab colored suit is a rare survivor from the Williamsburg area, probably worn by Henry Tazwell (1753-1799). Tazwell probably had this suit made in the mid to late 1760s. Scarring on the sleeves suggest the coat originally had cuffs up to the elbows and the unusual, shaped pocket flap on the waistcoat also suggests that the waistcoat had a much straighter front. At some point probably in the 1770s the cuffs were made smaller, and the skirt of the waistcoat cut into a more fashionable shape. Remaking of clothing was a common practice during the 18th century.
ProvenanceThese garments were originally in the collection of the Chrysler Museum in Norfolk, Virginia until they were transferred to The Valentine in 1991 and further transferred to Colonial Williamsburg in 2023. Documentation from the Chrysler Museum suggests that this suit was worn by Littleton Waller Tazwell (1774-1860). It is more likely that Henry Tazwell (1753-1799) wore the suit and had it remade at least once during his lifetime.