Silk Brocade, Lancé, and Tobine Document

Dateca. 1762

OriginEurope, France, Lyon or Portugal, Lisbon (possibly)

MediumSilk

DimensionsOverall (H x W): 40 3/4 x 21 1/8in. (103.5 x 53.7cm) Other (Selvedge Width): 21 1/4in. (54cm) Other (Design Repeat (H x W)): 10 3/4 x 4 1/4in. (27.3 x 10.8cm) Physical Description (PPI): 48 Physical Description (EPI): 80

Credit LineMuseum Purchase

Object number1969-98,7

DescriptionThe rectangular panel of blue silk has a lattice pattern of white ribbon with polychrome flowers repeated four times across the width. The blue ground is figured with warp floats in a chevron pattern, leaving no structural fabric visible. There is a hatchwork of white scalloped, lace-patterned ribbon, the lace patterning achieved through geometric diapering. In the spaces between the robbons are bouquets of orange, pink, and white flowers with green leaves. The design also has black detailing, which is mostly disintegrated.The left and right edges are selvedges. The selvedge consists of six warps (1/8”) of balanced plain weave. The bottom edge has remnants of a tape hem done with blue silk ribbon. The top edge is pressed back and whip stitched.There is a split at the center of the bottom edge that has been patched with a modern fabric.
Label TextThese silks bear a striking resemblance to designs by L. Galy Gallien of Lyon, France. However, the former owner claimed they were products of the silk works in Lisbon, Portugal. Since designs were often copied across countries, either origin is a possibility. This set of fragments is particularly interesting because Colonial Williamsburg owns pieces in two slightly different colorways.
MarkingsNo marks or inscriptions.
ProvenanceObtained by J. A. Lloyd Hyde, dealer;
Sold to CWF, 1969.