Silk Brocade, Lancé, and Cannelé Document

Dateca. 1760-1780

MediumSilk and silver

DimensionsOverall (H x W): 21 x 20 1/4in. (53.3 x 51.4cm) Other (Selvedge Width): 20 3/4in. (52.7cm) Other (Design Repeat (H x W)): 11 1/4 x 10 1/4in. (28.6 x 26cm) Physical Description (PPI): 108 Physical Description (EPI): 144

Credit LineGift of Mrs. Francis H. Lenygon.

Object number1971-335

DescriptionThis rectangular fragment of light blue taffeta has a design of two panels of strewn flowers. The center is striped with tobine in blue and white, with remnants of black floats. The tobine is flanked with small vines with leaves and buds. On either side of the center stripes are stems of purple carnations, pink buds, and yellow roses. They are entwined with undulating vine of daisy-shaped flowers with blue centers. Most of the white of the vines and flowers has disintegrated. Another small vine with buds and leaves runs up either edge of the fabric. The top edge is pressed back but raw. The bottom edge is raw. The left and right selvedges are pressed back and edged with 1 1/8” wide silver tape. The selvedge consists of six thick corded warps, and then nine warps of balanced plain weave. Two of the warps are twisted with dark thread. There are machine stitch lines along the top and bottom edges. There are old pleat lines at the top. The fragment is partially lined with very thin, green taffeta. A hole in the center is patched with another period textile, wrong sides together. The small patch has a blue brocaded flower that shows from the front of the main fragment. The rest of the patch is cream taffeta with self floats, a brocaded purple rose and silver leaf. Its selvedge consists of six corded warps.
Label TextThis fragment illustrates out-dated methods of preserving and collecting textiles. The small hole near the middle of the fragment is patched with a piece of a different historical textile, which contains silver brocade. The silver tape along the edges was also a modern addition.
MarkingsStamped in purple on reverse, “NOT FOR SALE.”
ProvenanceThis is one of a large collection of "decorator samples" from the firm of MORANT & COMPANY, obtained by Morant & Co., 91 New Bond Street, London, before 1930. The firm, later known as LENYGON & MORANT, was transferred to New York about 1930.
Given to CWF, 1971.