Brocaded Silk Skirt Panel

Date1733-1742

MediumBrocaded Silk Taffeta

DimensionsOH: 50 1/4" x OW: 21 1/4"; repeat: 23 5/8"

Credit LineMuseum Purchase

Object number1991-566

DescriptionThis rectangular skirt panel has a cream ground with a large-scale, scrolling design of roses, carnations, and other fruits and flowers. The design consists of shallow S-shaped green leaves and floral meanders, overlaid with heavy, three-dimensional flowers in yellows, blue, pinks, and purples. There is a band of pink checks (four rows) at the bottom, indicating the end of the bolt. The top and bottom edges are raw, and the left and right edges are selvedges. The selvedges are held in a plain weave with two green stripes and are 5/8” wide. From the outside in, there are four thick warps in maroon, green, and yellow; ten cream warps; twelve green warps; twelve cream warps; then twelve green warps. There are stitch lines along the selvedges and the bottom edge. The top of the upper fragment shows evidence of being held in right-facing knife pleats of various widths, but with an average of 1/8” progression. Underneath the seam, there is evidence of large, 2 ½” pleats. There is an ink notation of “20 _/4” at the bottom left corner, likely “20 ¾”—the width of the design inside the selvedges.
Label TextThis silk fragment was designed in Spitalfields, a neighborhood in East London where England's finest silks were produced in the 18th century. This industry was led by French Protestant refugees, and it was because of these individuals that England's silks began to rival French examples. This textile, with its sinuous floral patterns, light ground, and pastel tones, is typical of Spitalfields silks and the Rococo designs and colors that were so popular in Britain, the Continent, and the United States in the middle of the 18th century.
InscribedNone
Markings“20 _/4” at bottom left corner. (Likely “20 ¾,” the width in inches of the design not including selvedges.)
ProvenanceObtained by dealer, Cora Ginsburg, New York;
Sold to CWF, 1991.