Waistcoat
Dateca. 1790
OriginEurope, France
MediumCream silk satin for front and back; back lining of cotton, front lining of linen-cotton tabby weave; pocket lining of linen-cotton tabby weave; silk embroidery thread; silk chenille trim.
DimensionsOL: 21 1/2" OW, FOLDED:10 1/4" Waist: 40 3/4"; Across shoulders: 14 3/4"
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Cora Ginsburg
Object number1990-13
DescriptionMan's, sleeveless waistcoat of cream silk embroidered with silk threads, in a scene of yellow and brown spotted leopards fighting along a stream bank overhung with trees. There are flowers of blue, pink, and white embroidered overall. The garment is cut straight across the bottom, with no extra skirt. The waistcoat has a v-neckline with an attached standing band collar, which opens to lapels decorated with large yellow, blue, and pink flowers. The front closes with 7 buttons. The pockets are finished with a rectangular welt of silk satin, edges with 2 rows of satin stitches, worked in the silk chenille trim, one of light blue and one of dark blue. The back of the waistcoat can be tightened for a close fit with 2 tapes of silk. One tape, which is 7 1/2" long has a cast metal (pewter?) buckle. The buckle is 3/4" x 1 1/2" with 2 teeth. Underneath the tines of the buckle is the word "PARIS", below the teeth is the word "SOLIDE". The other tape which would be drawn through the buckle is 11 1/2" long. The back has a center which opens in an 11" vent. At one time a dart was taken in the center back seam 5" deep at the lower edge, tapering to nothing at the neckline. It seems to have been made with machine stitching. When the vent was added, the open edges of the back and the lining were stitched together with a machine stitch. The embroidery is done in satin, straight, and stem stitches, and French knots. These stitches are worked in silk embroidery thread and silk chenille trim. Some of the embroidery is in the form of a six petal flower, surrounding a blue center. These centers have been worked over round, flat disks of paper (?) to achieve their uniform shapes. The buttons are covered with silk satin and embroidered with an eyelet stitch of blue thread. The buttonholes are finished with a buttonhole stitch in cream silk thread. The interior seams have been constructed with running stitches at 11/inch. The collar has been sewn to the garment and the shoulder seams have been constructed using running stitches spaced 8/inch. The collar and the armhole seams are constructed using running stitches at 7/inch. The cotton lining is attached to the garment with whip stitches at the lower edges at 9/inch. It is attached to the armholes with running stitches at 7/inch. The tapes on the back are constructed with running stitches at 6/inch. The tape to which the buckle is attached is reinforced with whip stitches at 7/inch. The bottom front edges are mended where they have split with cream thread using whip stitches at 8/inch.
