Waistcoat
Dateca. 1790
OriginEngland
MediumCream silk satin with stripes, silk embroidery, cotton-linen fustian back and lining, buckram, decorative beads (possibly vellum), silk chenille trim and cording.
DimensionsCenter Front: 17" (neck to waist), 23" (neck to hem)
Center Back: 20 3/4" (neck to vent), 23 1/8" (neck to hem)
Waist: 32 3/8"
Chest: 36 1/2"
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Cora Ginsburg
Object number1989-433
DescriptionMan's sleeveless waistcoat of cream silk satin, striped vertically with shades of yellow and blue, embroidered in a floral pattern between the stripes with blue and yellow silk thread and chenille, accented with circular vellum sequins, 1/8" in diameter. Embroidery primarily satin and straight stitches with French knots. Standing collar cut in one with the body of the waistcoat, faced with striped satin. The garment is cut straight across the front edge with no skirts. Functional pockets covered by a horizontal welt. The front closed with 9 functional embroidered buttons (one missing). Shown at left in photograph with another waistcoat.Construction Details: The backing was constructed out of cotton-linen fustian, and the center back seam was stacked and backstitched to finish using linen thread. The tails of the garment were hemmed. The back is unlined. The lining was constructed out of the same fustian, finished with large felled seams, and felled to the striped silk center front panels. Side seams were secured with a backstitch, then a running stitch was used to finish the seam allowance. Part of the lining can be seen on the sides, as the silk does not exactly match the lining. This could be because the silk was woven to shape for an earlier waistcoat, then was cut for a larger man or different style. Silk facings were used at the neckline and are attached with running stitches. The armseye is finished with a small hem. Piecing of the fustian was utilized at the shoulders. The striped silk panels were embroidered with silk thread, decorated with vellum beads, and trimmed with silk cord. Nine buttonholes were constructed in the center front, and there are eight remaining fabric covered buttons; one is missing from the top. These buttons were stitched next to uncut buttonholes. Both the buttonholes and buttons include a buttonstand constructed of buckram to support. Two pockets were stitched onto the center front panels and were decorated with the same silk cord trim.
