Waistcoat
Dateca. 1740
OriginEngland
MediumSilk satin, needleworked with silver gilt and spangles, embroidery likely done over vellum, silk, linen-cotton fustian, cream buckram, wool, cotton, lace, silk wig bag, metallic thread and purl, linen thread, silk thread, cotton thread. Threads identified by eye.
DimensionsCenter Front: 17 1/2" (neck to waist), 31 1/2" (neck to hem)
Center Back: 20 1/4 (neck to vent), 32 3/4" (neck to hem)
Chest: 38"
Waist: 32"
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Cora Ginsburg
Object number1991-476
DescriptionMan's sleeved waistcoat of cream silk satin, heavily embellished with bold scrolling designs in silver-gilt needlework down fronts, around pocket flaps, at front hem and around edge of sleeves. Collarless, closed in front with 22 metal thread covered buttons (1 replaced) and 15 functional buttonholes. Sleeves cut to curve over elbows, ending in vent buttoned with single button and buttonhole. Shaped pocket flaps trimmed with three metal covered buttons under each scallop, covering functional pockets. Back of plain satin, with center back seam opening into a vent. Black silk wig bag tacked to center back lining, trimmed with remnants of black ribbon. Embroidery stitches include satin, using metal-wrapped threads, silver gilt bullion applied, and applied sequins/paillettes. Later lace sleeve ends.Construction Details: Waistcoat with sleeves constructed out of embroidered silk satin, and lined with silk down the center front, tails, and skirts; this is secured to the silk satin with a running stitch. The back and part of the front panels, as well as the sleeves, are lined with fustian, which is felled to the silk lining. The center back seam is felled to finish. Linen thread reinforcement can be found at the vents. The twenty-two buttons and fifteen buttonholes down the center front are supported by a buckram buttonstand. These buttons, as well as those underneath the pockets and on the sleeves, are covered in metallic thread to match. The sleeves are pieced together from the silk satin, and are felled to finish. The embroidery is likely worked over vellum to support the stitches. A dark silk wig bag is tacked onto the neck of the garment, and lace and cotton sleeve extensions have been added. These are constructed out of cotton, a green colored wool material, and lace; they are constructed and secured into the garment with a running stitch.
Construction History:
Ca. 1740: The garment is originally constructed.
Ca. late 19th century: The sleeve extensions are added to the waistcoat, and the wig bag is tacked on.
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