Coat

Date1730-1750

MediumSilk velvet, uncut and voided, buckram, linen, silk, linen thread.

DimensionsCenter Front: 19 3/4" (neck to waist), approximately 35 1/2" (neck to hem) Full width of fabric: 19 1/2" Chest: approximately 34"

Credit LineMuseum Purchase

Object number1996-805,1

DescriptionMan's coat from a suit that has been partially taken apart. Made of red silk uncut and voided velvet in pattern of diagonally crossing leaves, forming framework for white stylized flower heads. Coat is collarless with wide sweeping skirts and large deep cuffs on long sleeves. Nineteen buttonholes down the front, with buttons missing on the opposite side. Shaped pocket flaps; with no pockets surviving. Portions of cream linen inner facing down fronts and on vent; silk twill pocket flap lining.

Construction Details: The coat is constructed out of purple-red silk velvet, and all panels are finished with a running stitch. The center back is constructed of two panels, and the center back seam includes the edges of both panels folded back and felled together, leaving unfinished edges in the inside of the garment. Cream buckram panels are present down the center front as a button stand and to support the center back tails, and are secured with a running stitch. This buckram was reused from another garment, and still includes remnants of previous buttonholes. The center back panels and extended tails are secured to each other with a running stitch, leaving unfinished edges on the inside. These openings are also reinforced with a linen. The front panels include two pockets, which are lined with silk twill and reinforced with dark linen. Remnants of thread below the pockets suggest that they may have had buttons underneath. Nineteen buttonholes are found on the front of the garment, though six are sewn up. No buttons remain. A piece of the purple-red silk velvet is used to support the neckline. The cuffs were constructed of two pieces of the silk velvet, felled to each other. An overcast stitch was used to finish the seam edges. The cuffs were then secured to the sleeves with a running stitch. The garment may have originally been lined with silk twill.

Construction History:
Ca 1745: The garment is originally constructed.
Post 1745: The garment may have been deconstructed, and the lining removed.