Waistcoat
Date1720-1730
OriginEngland
MediumSilk brocaded with silver and gold, dark green silk, buckram, silk thread, 35 remaining buttons (metal and thread covered to match)
DimensionsCenter Front: 21" (neck to waist), 33 1/2" (neck to hem)
Center Back: 20" (neck to vent), 34 3/8" (neck to hem)
Chest: 41"
Waist: 39"
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Cora Ginsburg
Object number1991-475
DescriptionMan's collarless sleeved waistcoat of silk heavily brocaded with salmon, pink, acid green, and blue colored silks, silver, and silver gilt in dense floral, leaf, and scroll design. Waistcoat is long, with straight fronts and flared skirts. Center front has 21 silver-gilt "thread" buttons and buttonholes, with bottom six buttonholes uncut. Shaped decorative pocket flaps, each trimmed with five buttonholes (two cut open), without functional pockets under flaps. Ends of sleeves are edged with eight-inch wide pieces of the silk brocade, and close with three buttons and buttonholes. Construction Details: The center back of the garment is constructed out of, and lined with, dark green silk; the center back seam is felled to finish. The upper sleeves are also constructed out of dark green silk, with cuffs made of brocaded silk secured on with a whip stitch. The center front panels and the tails of the garment are constructed of silk brocade, lined with the dark green silk, and a running stitch is used to finish. Piecing is used at the tails and the neck to provide support. A buckram buttonstand is also inserted between the fashion fabric and the lining to support the buttons and buttonholes. Alterations may have taken place during the construction of the garment. Remains of longer buttonholes are present on the garment, though they are now shorter. This may have been done to create room for the pocket flaps. There are two front pockets on the garment, constructed of pieced silk brocade. The pockets were originally cut out in a triangular shape, though they were then sewn up and are non-functional. This may have led to the addition of two pockets in the skirts of the garment; constructed with the addition of another layer of green silk on top of the lining.
Construction History:
Ca. 1720-1730: The garment is originally constructed, with some alterations. These include sewing up the front pockets, adding pockets in the skirts, and shortening the buttonholes.
