Coat
Dateca. 1790
OriginEurope, France
MediumSilk, ribbed tabby alternating with satin stripes; self fabric facings; linen & cotton "fustian" and linen linings.
DimensionsOL: 45"; back shoulder width 11 5/8".
Credit LineMuseum Purchase
Object number1983-232
DescriptionMan's frock coat of green ribbed tabby silk, striped with variegated narrow pink satin stripes. High, turn-down collar; front opening with ten self-fabric covered buttons 1 3/8" in diameter, with two of the buttonholes cut open. Front curved sharply away from chest. Broad shaped pocket flaps. Close fitting sleeves, cut to curve over elbows, end in sewn-down band and vertical placket buttoned with 5 small buttons. Coat back has center back vent and pleats ending in a button where pleat joins pocket flap. Fronts and skirt lined with the primary fabric; sleeves and upper back lined with napped cotton and linen "fustian"; other linings include several brown linens. Under collar lined with blue striped cotton and linen. Shoulders padded with red twill wool innerlining; other innerlining of cream color ribbed silk.Label TextCoat
France, ca. 1790
Silk; linings of cotton-and-linen, linen, and wool
1983-232
This coat shows the fashion of the 1790s, when coats were slimmer than previous styles. They were also more cut away at the front to further emphasize the chest. Here, padding fills in the hollow of the chest.
Posture and body shape have changed since the eighteenth century. The fashionable man's body of 1750 to 1790 had sloping shoulders, a narrow back, and slim, nonmuscular upper arms. Square shoulders were not considered desirable. Padding created a prominent chest, rather than defining the top of the shoulders. The cut of a suit coat further emphasized the chest and stomach by placing shoulder and underarm seams toward the back, strengthening the illusion.
