Images(3)

Hoops

Date1750-1770

OriginAmerica, New York, Albany or Croton

MediumGlazed linen, split cane, linen tape, wool padding, linen thread. Identified by microscope.

DimensionsOverall Length: 33" Circumference around top hoop: 48 1/2" The first hoop falls 4" below the waist, the second is spaced 11" away from the previous, the third is spaced 8" away from the previous, and the 4th at 7 3/4."

Credit LineGift of Mrs. Cora Ginsburg

Object number1990-11

DescriptionWoman's hooped petticoat made of cream linen, with four channels for hoops, to extend the shape into a flattened oval. The top three hoops include casings for two stacked pieces of cane, while the bottom casing is for a single piece of cane. Both pieces of cane still remain in the top hoop. The second hoop only has one piece of cane remaining. Bottom three hoops are only fastened front and back and hang loose on the sides. The bottom two hoops have last there cane. The petticoat ties at the waist with linen tape threaded through a casing. The petticoat is constructed from two pieces of linen. One piece of linen spans from the drawstring at the waist to the first hoop, while the other piece makes up the lower skirt of the petticoat and is gathered and stitched to the top hoop. The petticoat has padded pocket openings at the sides. The fabric is one selvage width of the linen running horizontally.

Construction Details: The top hoop casing was constructed of glazed linen, two separate pieces of cane were added, and stitched between the two to keep them stacked and secure. Glazed linen was then secured onto this with a whip stitch, a drawstring channel was added at the waist and finished with a whip stitch, wool padding was added at the hips. The remaining portion of the petticoat, constructed of one panel of glazed linen, was gathered and secured to the hoop with a whip stitch, leaving some of the unfinished edge visible. A slit was left in the center back. The three remaining casings were constructed of glazed linen with a whip stitch, and a spaced backstitch was added to the second and third casings to create two channels for boning. These casings were then secured to the petticoat with a whip stitch at 11 stitches per inch. Tucks were added in the center front and back when the casings were stitched down to control fullness. At the center back opening, the casing is folded over and whip stitched to finish, preventing loose caning from showing. A selvage edge is used at the bottom instead of a hem. An identifying tag is included in the center front, secured with a running stitches about 1" long.

Construction History:
1. 1750-1700: Initial construction, shows no signs of alteration.

Label TextThis linen hooped petticoat served to hold the skirt out in the fashionable shape with side fullness. They have always been attributed to having been worn by Anne Van Rensselaer (1766-1855) from the Croton and Albany areas of New York during the eighteenth century. She was the daughter of Pierre and Joanna Van Cortlandt of Croton. She married Philip Van Renesselaer, the future mayor of Albany, in 1787. However, the fashion of these hoops does not match her lifetime. They may have instead been worn by her mother, Joanna (Livingston) Van Cortlandt (1722-1808).
ProvenanceSupposedly worn by Anne Van Rensselaer (1766-1855) in the Croton and Albany area of New York during the eighteenth century. She was the daughter of Pierre and Joanna Van Cortlandt of Croton. She married Philip Van Renesselaer, the future mayor of Albany.