Silk Brocade and Lancé Document

Dateca. 1735

MediumSilk

DimensionsOverall (H x W): 22 1/4 x 21 3/8in. (56.5 x 54.3cm) Other (Selvedge Width): 21 3/8in. (54.3cm) Other (Design Repeat): 16 1/2 x 10 1/2in. (41.9 x 26.7cm) Physical Description (PPI): 104 Physical Description (EPI (of satin weave)): 240 Physical Description (EPI (of plain weave)): 192

Credit LineGift of Mrs. Francis Henry Lenygon.

Object number1973-147

DescriptionThis rectangular fragment of green satin has a design of scrolling floral trees sprouting from white, baroque scrollwork islands that repeats twice across the width. The flowers include large, feathery pink flowers and small, white star-shaped flowers. The leaves are plain weave, and show the lighter color of the weft. One shade of pink and the white are lancé, and the darker pink and purple are brocaded with the floats tied down in a twill pattern. The top and bottom edges are raw. The left and right edges are selvedges. The outer selvedge is a lighter green than the main ground and is held in a plain weave. From the outside in, there are three corded warps, then four warps of plain weave, then fifteen warps in a 6/1 satin weave. The satin woven part is distinguished from the body of the fabric by the coarse weave and where the design starts. The total width of the selvedge is 3/16”. There are stitch lines along the top and bottom.
Label TextIn the mid-1730s, trees growing from islands was a very popular motif in silk design. Finding the motif makes if relatively easy to date the fabric since the fad was short-lived; it was replaced in the 1740s by loosely-strewn cut stems of flower.
MarkingsStamped in purple on the reverse are the marks “4468” “NOT FOR SALE” and “MORANT & CO./91, NEW BOND ST./LONDON, W.” in a rectangle.
ProvenanceThis is one of a large collection of "decorator samples" from the firm of MORANT & COMPANY, obtained by Morant & Co., 91 New Bond Street, London, before 1930. The firm, later known as LENYGON & MORANT, was transferred to New York about 1930.
Given to CWF, 1973.