Brocaded Silk Document

Date1750-1760

MediumSilk

DimensionsOverall (H x W): 45 3/8 x 21in. (115.3 x 53.3cm) Other (Selvedge Width): 21 3/16in. (53.8cm) Other (Design Repeat (H x W)): 33 1/4 x 21 3/8in. (84.5 x 54.3cm) Physical Description (PPI): 72 Physical Description (EPI): 352

Credit LineMuseum Purchase

Object number1954-138

DescriptionThe rectangular fawn-colored taffeta fragment features a simplistic design of peapods and pea blossoms. Three groups of pods and blossoms ascend across the width of the fabric from left to right and are orient to the right, and then a left oriented group is placed at center before the design repeats. The top, bottom, and left edges are raw. The right edge is mostly selvedge, but raw in some places. The selvedge is held in a plain weave and consists of two green and two brown stripes (3/16” wide). From the outside in, there is one thick weft of green and yellow (or the light green used in the brocade); 11 green warps; 10 brown warps; 10 green warps; and 9 brown warps. Pieces of the adjacent panels are still left on the left and right edges where they were cut away on the outside of the seam, showing that at least three panels were sewn together along the selvedges. The stitching, however, is early machine stitching (in chain stitch). There is evidence of a stitched crease (likely a false hem) across the width near the bottom edges. There is also evidence of a stitched crease along the top edges, which shows evidence of uneven pleating. There appears to have been a dart 4 ½” from the top on the right edge.
Label TextThis lovely fragment appears to have originally been a skirt panel. There is evidence of it being sewn along the selvedges, and also stitch lines on the top and bottom, where it could have been attached to a waistline and hem, respectively.
MarkingsNo marks or inscriptions.
ProvenanceObtained by dealer Elinor Merrill, New York;
Purchased by CWF, 1954.