Images(2)

Silk Lancé Document

Date1760-1770

MediumSilk

DimensionsOverall (H x W): 19 7/8 x 20 1/4in. (50.5 x 51.4cm) Other (Design Repeat (Height)): 7 1/2in. (19.1cm) Physical Description (PPI): 80 Physical Description (EPI): 96

Credit LineGift of Mrs. Francis Henry Lenygon.

Object number1973-143

DescriptionThis rectangular, blue-striped satin has a design of curvilinear floral vines. The ground is vertically striped in shades of blue creating narrow gradients from dark to light. Above the stripes, two white vines in S-curves sprout green and white leaves and pink and yellow flowers. The design is created through lancé weave. The top and bottom edges are raw, and the left and right edges are selvedges. The selvedge consists of two parts: an outer part of corded plain weave followed by an inner stripe of twill weave. From the outside in, there are seven warps of plain weave, cream, blue, cream, pink, cream, pink, and cream. The eight warps of twill weave are all blue. The fragment is seamed vertically down the center with machine stitch.
Label TextThe striped ground was a difficult technique. First, several vats of yarn would be dyed—a different batch for every shade. Then they had to be threaded onto the loom in exactly the right order with no doubling: if you made a single mistake, you had to rethread everything after the mistake to fix it.
MarkingsStamped in purple on reverse, “NOT FOR SALE.”
ProvenanceThis is one of a large collection of "decorator samples" from the firm of MORANT & COMPANY, obtained by Morant & Co., 91 New Bond Street, London, before 1930. The firm, later known as LENYGON & MORANT, was transferred to New York about 1930.
Given to CWF, 1973.