Waistcoat
Date1760-1770
MediumBlue ribbed silk, brocaded flowers in silk and silver, dark blue silk twist thread, buckram, fustian (one twill woven textile, one plain woven textile), blue worsted serge, blue twilled silk facings
DimensionsCenter Front: 28 1/4" (neck to hem), 20" (neck to waist)
Center Back: 20 1/4" (neck to tip), 26 3/4" (neck to hem)
Waist: 36 1/2" (enlarged from about 30 1/2" originally)
Credit LineMuseum Purchase
Object number1960-699
DescriptionWaistcoat of blue ribbed silk brocaded to shape with floral design in shaded pink roses with silver and green leaves. Brocading extends down slightly shaped fronts, around bottom of skirt, and around pocket flaps; small sprig design fills the field. Waistcoat closes with 12 silver tinsel buttons. Functional pockets covered with curved, shaped pocket flaps. Lining and backing of blue silk, linen, and two types of linen with napped surfaces. The center back was enlarged with blue worsted surge in skirts and linen lining. This addition was likely an alteration contemporary with the original construction of the waistcoat.Construction details: Lining constructed of three different types of linen; a plain weave for the front panels and two different types of fustians with a napped surface. One is a plain woven napped linen that makes up a side panel and may have been added as an alteration. These are covered in noticeable areas (center front panels and lower back) with silk and worsted serge facings to match. To finish the center back, the lining and exterior fabric is stacked, stitched together and unfolded. A felling stitch is generally used to finish, though remnants of a running stitch, used to secure before felling, remain. Twelve wooden button molds are covered in silver thread and sewn on top of lining, silk, and buckram support. The buckram is secured with a spaced backstitch. Buttonholes were constructed and faced with blue silk squares between each hole, aiding replacement as they could be removed individually to fix individual worn buttonholes.
Construction History:
1. 1760-1770: Initial construction
2: ca.1770: Alteration to make the waistcoat larger.
ProvenanceEx. Coll: Doris Langley Moore
