Waistcoat
Date1790-1800
MediumIvory twilled silk, embroidered and embellished with silk threads, metal purl, paste stones, and sequins, likely wooden button molds covered in fabric to match, white linen back; coarser linen back enlargement piece, linen pockets, silk twill front lining, coarse white linen button stand, linen tape. Cream silk thread, linen or cotton thread used for alterations. Threads identified by eye.
DimensionsCenter Front: 17" (neck to waist), 18 3/4" (neck to hem), 20 3/4" (collar to hem)
Chest: 42"
Waist: 41.5"
Center Back: 20" (collar to hem)
Credit LineMuseum Purchase
Object number1960-711
DescriptionIvory silk twill-woven waistcoat embroidered down fronts, hems, and pocket flaps in floral design of mirrored paste stones, metal purl, sequins, and colored silks in green, gold, purple, mauve, and blue. Small sprigs are evenly scattered over the ground. Waistcoat is sleeveless, with a standing collar embroidered around edges. The waistcoat does not button all the way up to the collar, but instead from below the neck to the skirt, which flares broadly below the waist. Shaped pocket flaps. Eleven embroidered buttons. Waistcoat has natural linen back that adjusts with three pairs of tapes. Back is short with no skirts, and is enlarged with a wide strip of old, pieced linen sewn down the center back and running vertically from collar to hem. Neck is pieced with coarser linen in the upper back. Front sections have original lining of white silk in twill weave. Shown in center of photograph with two other waistcoats.Construction Details: Waistcoat lining in the center front is constructed of twilled silk, felled to the waistcoat with silk thread. A coarse, white linen button stand is also present to support the buttons and buttonholes. The back panels of the waistcoat are made of white linen. Three sets of ties are present in the back, constructed with linen tape. Alterations made include a coarse linen strip added in the back, and piecing done at the neck.
Construction History:
1. Ca. 1790-1800: Waistcoat is first constructed.
2. Probably later 19th century: The center back seam is removed to widen the waistcoat, and the skirts in the back are removed. A coarse linen strip, pieced together, is added in the back. The collar is expanded, and pieced, coarse linen is added to the neck. Later, this fabric will be darned to provide support. Tucks are also added underneath the arm. A tear in the center back strip is repaired with a running stitch done in linen or cotton thread.
ProvenanceEx Coll: Doris Langley Moore.
