Waistcoat
Date1785-1800
OriginEngland
MediumSilk, glazed linen, cotton, linen tape, 16 buttons (likely wood, fabric covered to match), checked silk trim, cream silk thread, cream linen thread. Threads identified by eye. Fabrics identified by microscope.
DimensionsChest: approximately 45"
Waist: approximately 43-44"
Center Front: 13 1/2" (neck to waist), 19 1/2" (neck to hem)
Center Back: 22" (neck to hem), 23 3/4" (collar to hem)
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Cora Ginsburg
Object number1991-480
DescriptionMan's double-breasted waistcoat of blue and yellow plaid silk, trimmed with checked silk tape down fronts, hems and pocket flaps. Waistcoat has standing band collar, 16 buttons, and 8 buttonholes on the left. Buttons are covered with checked and plaid textiles. Horizontal welt pockets. Front hem dips slightly to form waist-length garment, without skirts.Construction Details: The lining and back of the waistcoat are constructed of glazed linen, pieced and felled together with linen thread. The lining was then secured to the silk with a backstitch using cream silk thread. The checked silk trim was woven in one with the plaid down the center front, but seperately applied and stitched onto the hem and pocket welts. There are two sets of linen ties in the center back, and remnants of a third, smaller set that appear to have been removed; these may have been an addition and included a metal buckle. Side panels constructed of cotton were later added, as were pieced shoulder.
Construction History:
1. Ca. 1785-1800: Waistcoat is originally constructed.
2. Probably 1830-1840: Waistcoat is altered. Cotton side panels are added to widen the sides, buckle added to the center back, and the shoulders were widened with pieced silk.
Label TextFirst constructed ca. 1785 to 1800, this men's waistcoat serves as an example of the 19th century re-use of 18th century garments. When originally made, it was constructed of plaid silk, silk trim woven in with the silk at the center front, and linen lining and backing. However, when altered and re-worn ca. 1830-1840, cotton side panels and silk piecing at the shoulders were added to widen the garment. This displays the common practice of re-using 18th century garments and fabric to make 19th century clothing.
