Waistcoat

Dateca. 1775, remodeled ca. 1800

MediumSilk, linen and cotton lining, paper.

DimensionsWaist: 18"; Length: 23 1/2"

Credit LineGift of Anonymous Donors

Object number1971-1562

DescriptionWhite silk satin waistcoat, sleeveless and having standing collar. Waistcoat is embroidered with polychrome silks. The border designs for the collar, front openings, and welt pockets are embroidered with a garland or bouquet of flowers. Each of these embroidered areas is edged with an embroidered pink stripe and a couched brown chenille cord, and a row of embroidered brown chenille knots framed with small circular paper eyelets. The field of the waistcoat fronts is embroidered with isolated flowers. 10 buttons embroidered with pink and green silk and metallic cord. The back of the waistcoat and the lining are of a linen/cotton twill that was napped. Waistcoat altered c. 1800.
Label TextWaistcoat
Britain, ca. 1775, remodeled ca. 1800
Silk embroidered with silk and paper sequins, faced with silk, lined and enlarged with linen-cotton, linen, and cotton, linen-cotton back
G1971-1562, anonymous gift
By the end of the eighteenth century, men's fashionable waistcoats had shortened to waist level. The old-style angled cutaway at the front was eliminated. Pocket placement rose and welt openings eventually replaced shaped flaps. At the same time, high, standing collars came into fashion. The owner of this 1770s waistcoat decided to have his garment brought up to date around 1800. Originally, the waistcoat was longer, with pocket flaps that angled off to correspond with a front cutaway opening. The tailor cut up the old waistcoat and cleverly recombined the pieces of the puzzle to achieve the new style. He made the new standing collar from the angled front hems; he turned the pieces upside down, and sewed them to the neckline. He made new welt pockets by turning the old flaps upside down and repositioning them higher on the torso.
ProvenanceEx Coll: Tomlinson